Blackwatch

Going back to this original question, for L2 I would want a strip of fabric covering the original button holes. L1 approval with visible button holes would be up to the GML. I have been on the line with Wampawear this morning to get the olive green (and black) Army coveralls started, but that WILL take time, and a factory time allotment, plus shpping time from overseas. Anyone who has watched the Wampa prototyping/ manufacturing/shipping process knows that this is not quick.

oh you meant the rim that goes all the way around it. Ive used rubber stripping on my other similar helmets in the past (ATST, Army trooper, Sapper, Veers)

yeah the typical pilot style flightsuit does not give us what we need honestly. The pockets are all wrong and its a LOT to remove, plus taking those cuffs off is a total mess. AND they arent green. But im working with Wampa on it.

Nathan are you talking about the helmet liner inside the helemt?

Per the CRL zippers are permissable for L1 as long as they are covered and Crow boots are covered. . All of my boots have zippers, they have to. I cannot get my foot back out IF i can get it in there without them.

so apparently this is likely what I used there is one pair left, size 50 green coveralls

OK- following up on this with recent experince. I am making a bunch of Jawas. a Horde, in fact. And one oft he jawas wanted to use cheap rubber boots which he provided. MOST of the wrappings did not survive long, depsite using 3m Spray77 glue applied heavily. It just sweated right off. I just did my own boot shafts, and it was really simple, just some quality time with a sewing machine, vinyl and velcro. I am wearing my work boots around to break them in before I make the conversion on the front of it, cut the soles, and add the shafts on top.

good luck and I look forward to your build progrss!

I have my old set of coveralls for sale in the sales topics, cleared L2. If nothig else you can modify a white pair of coveralls and dye to te green shade. Im workig wth Wampawear to develop the correct green that we need, but prototyping is a VERY slow back and fort process with the manufacturers.

you can also dye a regular white coveall to the olive green shade. What size do you need ?I Have my old set for sale.

Picking at my Shadow Scout buid and I want to tackle the flightsuit early after doing my Snowscout suit. Id like to get proper pigskin suede. I got some off amazon which is thin. Like heavy cardstock. Its enough to do my riding patches, but not enough to do my mudflap plus it is is so thin it wold not look right. I dont have a Tandy without driving several hours to get there. All the suede I see online is "soft" "buttery soft" "extra soft" "glazed" or "designer". I bellieve I need split, good, heavy split pigskin. These are listed as 1-2 oz Tandy pigskin split Tandy super soft District Leather extra velvety pig skin suede Panhandle Leather pigskin so I called Panhandle leather becaues the website only shows a generic photo. The lady working there today told me its several square feet and the weight is 3-5 oz. I ordered it, and when I get it in ill post here.

Shane I just saw this! congratulations on your shadow approval!

Im workigng with Gary Howe from PilotBay he has all new molds that hes pulling for me. I should be getting the box ofs tuff in the next week or so. At that point we can look at updates. I talked to wampawear this morning about this suit, he states it's cotton canvas, technically correct for the Del suit based on the research I was involved in writing the CRL document. Will these suits clear for L2 Specialist? EDIT--per our Staff conversation among the DCAs in Spec Ops, the WW suit is soft and light, despite being oxford canvas. It MIGHT pass if you pull the elastic out of the waistband to get rid of the scrunching. As Targ always said----buyer beware AND as I told all my TIE pilot Cadets, read research and understand before you buy anything.

I spoke with my L2 vendor and he has the new molds pulled for me and has the helmet togehter, and hes getting the rest together for me this week. Ill pit it al side by side with what I have on hand. There IS a need for L2 Del Meeko parts, it takes vendors a while to come around to it because its not the "hot new hotness that Disney just dropped".

my personal opinion on this It does not fall into the Special Operations part of what these troopers do. This was a detail, not thier day job.

Shayan go ahead and write us up a draft proposal if you would for each.

since the L2 requirement of the helmet is for it to be modeled after the game model, which is smaller than typical helmets, the helmets would ostensibly be 3d printed unless a maker comes along that will make a smaller helmet matching the different profile seen in the game. There wouldn't be any screws involved in a 3d printed helmet. Unfortunately when writing CRLs and photographing what is available , we kind of have to go with what we have. I dont know what walt does with his helmets but I know Jasons helmets have a wood block mounted on the backsside of the faceplate under the ramshorn and the screws go through that from the inside pulling the whole thing together very tightly.

glad to know you can order that stuff semi-locally but Im sure it has to be horribly expensive. Its not cheap here.

locally (*hes not one of ours) ive seen a TIE Reserve pilot walking around with his jumpsuit partly unzipped and his sleeves rolled up. He does not interact with us and quite honestly he doesnt talk to us. I dont know if hes a member or not- but he defintely stands out (and apart) from us in full "regulation" TIE gear. The same would go for the IST and any other costume. Its up to local command, or LFL policy.

for L1 approval the goggles may be removed and worn, but for L2 they need to be permanently fused / mounted / printed on the helmet because on the actual filming prop it was part of the helmet. You can see that some actually had the lens fall out during filming.

Per the CRL ( I wrote it) the GML should approve the rear zippers as long as they are fully concealed. I have zippers in every pair of boots I own. I have very long heels, its not physically possible to get out of boots if I manage to get in them, without the zippers.

I know crow makes the boots, but research determined these are German navy issue boots, or equivelant. They are a bit chunkier than regular jackboots. They absolutely come up shorter than the IAT/ Andor boot which rises to the knee. Talk to your GML about motorcycle boots, and adding a leather flap and buckle to give the correct look. I dont understand by the goggles being fixed and unfixed?

Hey Matt any further input from DSC on the gear?

Those are great boots but not for this version which is pretty much the same boot used for ICAT troopers and rises to the bottom of the knee. Id be willing to take a sharpie to the stitching and see what that would do.

If you go with crow- and I speak from experience on this- do two things 1: When you order, take photos of the measurements you make. I had to remeasure three times an finally send Crow photos of my measurements. 2: when you order, use your FULL COMPLETE LEGAL NAME on the order form. I used my first and last name on the form. He used my first and last name on the shipping document. DHL siezed my stuff, and I spent two weeeks Emailing DHL back and forth trying to determine and get my head wrapped around why I was put on their "terrorism support watch list" and had my boots and gloves held. I wound up sending extremely high quality (the first scan I sent was not good enough) to the DHL case handler. Does this sound super sketch? it sure does. But its posted on the DHL website under a buried FAQ and falls under their 'Incomplete documentation" clause. So- if you order from Crow, make sure to use your full, complete legal name. Buyer beware.